Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Wednesday 21 July Where Eagles Dare Part 2 - 14.5 klms Grasmere to Patterdale

Well everybody slept very well as they should have considering the travails of the day before. The accommodation at Grasmere was Chestnut Cottage which is apparently a converted coaching inn although it seemed more like one of those standard dual occupancy houses you see a lot in England. The guys who run it seem to have a vision for a restaurant in the dining area since it is very large and seems oversize for a B&B. Twas a wet and misty morning, and cool - we had been sweating on the forecast because we were concerned that we would get more rain - which would make life as miserable as it had been on the walk up Dent Fell and Loft Beck. However this was not to be by the time we got over the ridge to Grisedale Tarn the sun was shining occasionally although the wind was cutting through us and we had to don the jackets. Grisedale Tarn and surrounds are truly spectacular as you can see from the video and the pictures. We looked longingly at Helvellyn and Striding Edge (which were covered in mist) but the climb up to Grisedale had left us pretty tired and we decided to go down the hill. The walk down the hill was spectacularly beautiful but very uneventful none the less we were pleased to reach the White Lion at Patterdale and the first beer (Foster's naturally) didn't touch the sides. Now we're sitting in the bar writing the blog although posting it may be problematic since the pub doesn't have Internet connection - the pub down the road does but not sure if we can simply rock up and ask to use it. Tomorrow we have to climb the very big pile of rock conveniently situated right behind the hotel on our way to Burnbanks. Said pile of rock adds a certain ambience to the village but hasn't improved our attitude to tomorrow. Col here: My knees hate me. The climb up out of Grasmere in cool conditions as John said above had the sweat pouring out of me. I think it might have been that we were in the clouds/mist and the humidity was probably at about 100%. I think I might have pushed a bit too hard up the the peaks in yesterdays section and so today I made sure I had plenty of rests and just stayed with Al and JR. But there is no doubt that it is the downhills that take it out of me much more than the climbs. Tomorrow is another fairly tough day as we leave the Lake District behind and whilst I will miss the views and splendour of the scenery I won't be sorry to not have to climb up large peaks each day even when the rewards are stunning views. Just heard on the news that it has been the wettest JUly in 20 years - just our luck eh!! Peter here: You will recall that I went to a rural catholic high school where you could study wool classing and animal husbandry (at least until you were caught). One thing that strikes you as you move around the country is the variety of sheep that are out in the pastures. In England different shires bred different types of sheep. Something like the Border Leicester is distinctive but the discerning sheep watcher could you tell the diference between perhaps a Dalesbred and a Derbyshire Gritstone ?! Al here - one big climb to go, you bloody beauty, if I don't see another wet dirty great big mountain with rocky paths that are simulating rivers it'll be too soon !!! But.... It is very pretty and something special to see. Just a quick jaunt of 18km tomorrow.

2 comments:

  1. Watching your journey with interest - I walked the Wainwright's Coast to Coast in 2005 with 2 women friends (as Col knows). You just have to remember that, no matter how tired you are each night, you just get up and walk for another 6 or 7 hours the next day! Make sure you have a good breakfast and pack some extra carbs for lunch. once you get out of the Lakes District you will walk past pubs at lunchtime (no Fosters though - you have to have a local bitter each day).

    Your pictures remind me of a group of brothers and brothers in law that we kept crossing paths with - we nicknamed them the Danby Wiske Boys after the place where we first spotted them. Nothing was opened in Danby Wiske - no pub, no shop and we were hungry and thirsty. We laughed off our shared need of food and drink and managed to have a great pub session with them further up the track. Ah the camaraderie of the road....

    I hope you don't mind if I post the link to my walking friends

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  2. Many varieties of sheep - Let's hope those Kiwis don't find out. It could get ugly!

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