Tuesday 3nd August - Robin Hood's Bay to Manchester (300Kms more or less) - Take Me home Country Train

JR here:-

Today was very relaxing, we got up about 07:00 to farewell Al who's on his way back to Oz via Heathrow. Pete, Col and I left Robin Hood's Bay about 09:00 by taxi to Whitby to await our train to Manchester. The wait was enlivened by a visit to the public toilets which, apart from complimentary hand lotion in the mens, featured a Dyson Air Blade hand dryer which was astonishing effective in drying my hands nothing at all like the usually ineffective huff and puff things we have in Australia. It was a long wait for the train and Pete spent some time exploring the town while Col and I read our books and investigated the capabilities of the station cafe. While we've had some fabulous food, the inability of the general run of british eateries to deliver anything other than the same selection of mediocre food makes you appreciate the imigrant contribution to Australian food. Some of us can remember what Australian food was like in the 60's and 70's before the Italians, Greeks and other imigrants got at it.

Local train to Middlesborough then the express to Manchester. Interesting to see the country we tramped over at great effort from the windows of a train doing 100ks - picture book England all the way - and a different perspective on the fells and high moors. Eventually got to Manchester and Col and I had to run to make the connection to the Airport - Pete having decided to stay in town. Currently watching the Simpsons' in German (or one of the other northern European languages - its what your international traveller does apparently) in our room at the Radisson after a pleasant dinner and a bottle of Argentinan Pinot Gris at, by Austraian standards, a ridiculous price. Wine was very good by the way in my view the best we've had on tour.

Col here:-

Not a lot I can add to JR's summation of the day . Did get a chance to finish my book as a typical travel day meant lots of sitting around waiting fot the actual transport to arrive.

Last night's B&B was quite good - hosts were very attentive and even if the beds and shower were only just large enough to actually use they did treat us very well.

Also yesterday showed we have got fitter on our travels as Pete challenged JR to a race up the hill from the sea at Robin Hood's Bay and they both arrived at the top relatively intact :-)

So the three musketeers have started to disband with D'Artagnan (Al) leaving early this AM leaving Athos, Porthos and Aramis to soldier on. Mind you Al might not get his upgrade or be able to catch an earlier flight so he could be living in the Qantas club for a couple of days.

Tomorrow sees the joys of a 13 hour flight to Bangkok where Pete and I will be dining with Johnno and Aumie whilst JR has a short rest before a further 9 hours to Oz.

Then brother should arrive an we will hopefully catch up with Woody.

Monday 2nd August - Egton Bridge to Robin Hood's (30Kms or part thereof) - A2Z of the C2C

A is for Albert, Susan, and Liz, Dick, Lydia, Johanita and others we'll miss.
B is for blisters of heel, ball and toe and unless you fix them no further you'll go.
C is for contours along which we walked to avoid the peaks at which we baulked.
D is for a detour down into a rut which is what happens when you take a short-cut.
E is for exhausted which is what you will be, when the C2C has finished with thee.
F is for flies that Colly harassed, we all stood aside to let Colly pass.
G is for GPS, Guide Book and such or your navigation is not up to much.
H is for hirsute which now we are not, because to the end of the walk we have got.
I is for indian but not the red kind, the burning sensation is all in your mind.
J is for Julia of video fame, she made it look easy so she should be blamed.
K is for Kidsty a very high Pike, which has views that we quite like.
L is for lost which we were not but not from any talent we've got.
M is for methane from cows who have gas, you could power the country on what comes out their ass.
N is for nettles which line all the roads, some are so strong it'd slow a cane toad.
O is for OH NO, not another big hill.
P is for pain which makes us all strong, just why does it have to take so long.
Q is for quick which is how Colly walks, Pete and Al just like to talk.
R is for rain and wetness profound, making you sink in boggy ground.
S is for stones that you throw in the sea.
T is for turds spread around, fragrance du nord anglaise is profound.
U is for (udder) misery when it gets wet, and the cows have churned up the beck.
V is for vertigo which afflicts some, 10 feet from the edge was a close as they'd come.
W is for Wainwright who invented this bash, just as well the ... is ash.
X is for exceptional hosteleries.
Y is for why, why, why.
Z is for zippity do dah, zippity aye, I'm leaving for Australia today.

Sunday 1st August - Glaisdale to Egton Bridge (3kms) - Grosmont Choo Choo Why Don't You Choo Choo Me Home

JR here:-

Very short day today. Our accommodation was at Glaisdale which is 16kms from Blakey Ridge and we could have gone back to Blakey Ridge and started from there but we've had more than enough of the moors. Today's stage took us to Egton Bridge down the valley of the Esk. What wasn't through the woods along the river was on the road so it was easy travelling. The path is mostly paved with large and very worn stones so clearly its been in use for a very long time. We pressed on to Grosmont (another whole 3kms) which is the home of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway which runs vintage steam and diesel trains. It was Yorkshire Day so the railway was running short trips and we were able to get some video. Had a look round the workshops and returned to Egton Bridge by train - beer, lunch and a nana nap being the order of the afternoon.

Col here :-

Enjoyed what was basically a rest day as our accommodation was a few kms closer to the venue for tonights penultimate stay at the Horseshoe Hotel in Egton Bridge so we decided to spend the day as JR said at the Railway Museum and saw some steam trains (a la title). Apart from that had a nice day lying around reading my book and resting. Weren't happy at the result of the Rugby when it filtered through (we were flogged) and not quite sure what Drew Mitchell did to get sent off or at what point in the game it happened. It seems that the Poms are not that interested in any overseas sport and the first 10 pages of the Sports section in the paper is about soccer only. Very boring!!

Also my apologies to Dick (previously blogged as David). I will correct this in previous blogs when we can get the Internet again. Don't think we will get a connection tonight. Very quiet and peaceful little village here in Egton.

Al here:-

Gawd almighty that was sooooo difficult today, I just wanted to go on and on and on but somebody stopped me after 6km at Grosmont, home of steam trains that could have taken Harry Potter to Hogwarts. Lots of huffing and puffing that reminded me of some of our moments climbing the bloody big hills in this country. All in all a quiet day in two lovely villages.

Peter here :-

Having almost 16 overnight stays one of the disciplines of the Coast to Coast is to be able to be up and packed each day. The Boyz awake about 6 each day, Breakfast is at 8 and we have usually got our luggage at the front door of the accomodation by 9 then we're off. Pubs (where available) do not open for lunch to around 12:30 so we will probably stop for elevenses beforehand. Most times the luggage will have arrived before us (If not we have a few cleansing Ales until it arrives or if too tired have cleansing ales anyway and bugger the luggage). Then the first trap - out of the 17 nights accomodation 14 for Col and I were up 1 or more flights of stairs!. OK for most but Col's pack and mine are over 20kgs. We have perfected a technique to ensure we don't fall base over apex due to tiredness or any other reason our faculties are reduced. Into the room, open window (ventilation required before taking off shoe and socks), select bed, shower and freshen up before dinner at 6 and bed by 9. Then repeat. This I refer to as The Coast to Coast Progressive Pub Dance :-), so its progressive pub dance, walk walk stop together; walk walk stop together; walk walk stop together;twin bedroom tango tango; samba asleep, progress. Only one more to Robin Hood Bay !!!

Saturday 31st July 2010 - Great Broughton (Clay Bank Top) to Blakey Ridge 15kms - More Moor More Than Enough

Col here:-

Well not a lot to report today apart from I'm glad we didn't have to walk back up to Clay Bank Top from Great Broughton (supposedly 2 miles ) but it was a 10 minute drive in the car. Once at the start of the days walk - you guessed it straight up a steep climb and a slight false start which JR, Al and I recovered by climbing over the wall to the correct path but Pete had to backtrack to the bottom of the hill and come up the correct side. Whilst he was doing that our English friends appeared and so we decided to walk the moor tops together. As you will see from photos and movies the moors are a vast expanse of not much other than heather but there was a well marked and dry !! path so we were able to make excellent time once we got up to the top. We are almost at the end of the walk and the day after tomorrow will see us trekking into Robin Hoods Bay - the official end of our epic coast to coast foray. We said farewll to Susan and Lizzie at Blakey Ridge as they are heading back to work and will finish the walk another time. Saw David and Lydia again at the Lion Inn, Blakey Ridge. Also a Dutch couple that stayed with us at the Old School House B&B in Danby Wiske and that we have seen every day since then. You establish some good little friendships with your fellow travellers and I think they are all now active followers of this humble little blog.

JR here:-

Well it was moor, moor, moor today. We made very good time because most of this part of the walk is down a disused railway line so its wide and flat although the line follows the contours of the hills and you cannot help thinking that a 15km walk would be reduced to 5km if you could go direct over the moor. Leaving aside the bits where the heather/gorse has been burned to encourage new growth the gorse, heather, rushes are very dense and the ground is peaty and boggy so shortcuts are not on (don't want the bush to get one back). Col and I rolled along at a steady 5km+ and hour and it was just like marching around Googong but without trees. The views down the valleys are very nice but the scenery doesn't change much over the course of the walk. Col and I also managed to flush some pheasants (or possibly they were large grouse) out of the bush as we went along. If we'd had a shottie we could have picked up dinner - a gun dog may have helped as well. Had lunch at the Lion at Blakey Top which is apparently the fourth highest hotel in England, We were expecting to have the place to ourselves given its remoteness but, even allowing for it being Saturday, it was packed - apparently its on one of the main roads across the moor and people tend stop for lunch - people have even been known to drive through the snow in winter to visit the Lion. And the Eton Mess was very nice - just the thing to do with pavlova left overs.

Al here:-

All aboard the disused railway track across the moor was simply steady as she goes. Blisters improving.

Peter here:-

Moor or less an ok day. For those of you that I know that are planning to travel to the UK in the near future dont forget to stop off at the Hellenic Club for a New York Cut Steak on the way to the Airport. Steak dishes in the Pub will cost you 20 pounds upward with a around 3 pounds for the accompaning Pint of Ale depending on your drop. The Boyz like Black Sheep (the Brewery not the ... well maybe ...). Other main courses will be about 10-15 pounds with about 5 pounds for Starters/Entrees or Sweets/Deserts. So if you cant cook a three course meal on a cow pat (see yesterdays blog). For cheap entertainment in some of the smaller English Villages may I suggest a chat with the locals or fellow travellers (Always good for a show and tell blister/injury or about the last tall hill (I call them tall stories). Perhaps even yet another early night or if you wish the 5 free to air channels await you (3 of them BBc ) if you can get reception. Anyway I think I can smell the salt air of the North Sea :-) it must be close !!

Friday 30th July - Ingleby Cross to Great Broughton (Supposed to me 20kms but Boyz did 22km- all will be revealed) - Boyz Bite Bush

Col here:-

Villain to Hero - well I managed to start the day disastrously for the lads - tried to organise a short cut for the walkers but at some point the trail petered out entirely (about 3-4kms in and the same out again) so even though the boyz were very magnamimous and decreed it as a democratic team decision it was really me. But at a critical point later in the day I was able to resurrect the situation with a short plunge off a cliff that avoided two more steep climbs and descents so I think all is forgiven. Today was a good tough walk and the boyz are definitely fitter than when we started 'cause we ate it up. There were still about 3 steep climbs and of course descents but we still made good time. I am quite sure our new English friends (Susan, special skills teacher and her daughter, lawyer, Lizzie are chortling their way through this blog as they were also contemplating the short cut but made the sensible decision to stay on the real path. Susan will be much comforted at having won the race to the finish line. We also caught up with our other companions from way back at the start of the walk David and Lydia at our B&B last night. The Somerset House oasis was very nice and certainly one of the better establishments on the route. Dinner is a small problem as it is 1 mile away from the B&B but I am sure this will be resolved shortly and then it will be very pleasant. So 3 days walking to go now (but who is counting). Take care everyone I luv yaz all.:-)

JR here:-

Well as you might gather from Col's comments we're all pretty buggered (have had to give a couple of Ks back out of our taxi bank). It started somewhat badly when Al needed to adjust his dress within 100yds of the B&B (see photo - we had to do something while we waited) and went downhill slowly from there. The Bush scored an early goal with a track that got increasingly obscure and eventually ended in a barbed wire fence - Col was keen to proceed however the last time I climbed a barbed wire fence Col had to help me over because of the potential danger to certain sensitive parts and I was not anxious to experience that sensation again - so we decided to go back to the start. The rest of the walk went well and the views from the moors were spectacular - a different type of spectacular from the lakes - sort of bigger - but once you've seen England akimbo as it were you probably don't need to see it again. We also walked through some magical forest areas which have a type of soft green light that you don't see in Australia. We eventually scored the equalizer by avoiding the long climb over Cringle Moor and bashing our way through the bracken lead by Col - straight around and down the side of the hill to Greater Broughton. We were all feeling it by then so it was a good decision. At dinner tonight I could not resist the deep fried bacon - there are times when too much fat is barely enough - followed by the chef's Eton mess - seems unlikely that the chef will have been to Eton so I harbour some doubts about its authenticity. Otherwise an early night seems indicated.

Al here:-

I almost died today but somehow through my Aussie spirit and will to survive saw me through, not many others would have been able to make to the Village of Greater Broughton where they don't seem to know the difference between a prawn [that's Capitral P, P capital R capital A capital W capital N, not shrimp that are the size of undeveloped mosquitoes served in what was euphemisticitally called a prawn cocktail, what a joke !!!! Anyhoooo, the walk was a beauty with .of ups and downs designed to destroy your feet and knees but we made it. Perhaps tomrrow we will get to a place, Blakey Ridge/Glaisdale where they understand what a bloody prawn is and not foist the joke of baby shrimp on me, I'm not happy!

Peter here :-

I watched an episode of the survivor man - Bear Grylls before dinner. I watched intently to ensure that if anything happens on the Yorkshire Moors I am equipped to ensure the survival of the party. Rest assured dear readers if anything should happen I am now able to cook a 3 course meal on a cow pat, build a 3 bedroom house with lockable garage using stones from the fences and make bedding for 4 from dock leaves. Failing this I keep enough money for a taxi fare and always check the phone book at the previous nights accomodation to see if there are any "gunnings" I can call on for assistance and a cuppa. I think I will now call myself Peter "Mixed Grylls" Gunning

Wednesday 29 July - Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross - 14.5kms - Bonza Sheila Does Bush Medicine

JR here:-

The B&B in Danby Wiske was really nice as were the owners. Dinner in the pub worked surprisingly well - pizza, beer and curry in the end. Was initially tempted to share a volcano pizza with Al but the continuing eruptions have now convinced me that the pepperoni was the best choice. We were not allowed to eat our take-aways in the bar (out of the cardboard as it were) but were moved into the "dining area" (which contains 4 tables max) and provided with plates, plastic table cloths and cutlery - very civilised really. Walk today was mostly in sunshine (although there's a few clouds about now) and pretty easy over mostly flat farm land with a few small ups and downs - nothing much to photograph. Some farms had put refreshments out for walkers as a way to make some additional money. Made very good time and got into Ingleby Cross about mid-day before the Pub had opened which meant we had to wait for our beers. Tried the chicken parmigiana for lunch - turned out to be deep fried chicken schnitzel smothered in mozarella and parmesan - the landlord convinced me to have a half serve which was fair enough - two chicken schnitzels would be a big ask - Col says he intends to answer the call for dinner. The B&B that we are in is probably the best so far but is right on the A19 which is a dual carriage way road going to Middlesborough - very busy and noisy - doubt it will keep us awake. The A19 provided the only excitement of the morning - you have to run across it because there's no pedestrian crossing - the guide book and the map describe it as dangerous - pick your gap and sprint summarises the advice - a technique we happily applied.

Peter here:-

My rant for today is about foot blister products - I have managed to accumulate a vast pharmacy of products - savlon, compeed, elastoplast, bandaid, betadene, lanacane and generic antiseptic/anesthetic from Boots (UK Chemist). These products are as useless as tits on a bull or about as sticky as teflon. All designed for the heel not for the balls of the feet - in fact I think the weight of carrying these products in my pack may be contributing to the problem ! I think these manufacturers can't stick to the truth let alone to your skin. The owners of the "old school building" at Danby Whisk gave me whisky - pointing out that it was to put on the blisters not to be consumed ! The road sign for today was "pass here" so what do you do :-)

Col here: -

We have met up with a couple of English ladies who are doing part of the walk (as you can when it is only a few hours drive to get to another part of the walk). This has provided us with tonights headline as we have been shown a natural remedy for the short term but painful sting of Britain's most prominent piece of vegetation (namely nettles - they are bloody everywhere). The natural remedy to this accursed affliction (nettles that is) is dock leaves. I seem to cop at least one nettle in the leg a day. You may have gathered I don't like nettles very much. We have almost granted them (the bonza sheilas) temporary Aussie citizenship as they appear to have a similar warped view of the world. A number of other walkers who we have seen most evenings at the end of the days walk are still going strong as well and hopefully without jinxing myself and JR we seem to be the only walkers so far without blisters (touch wood). Knee has been much better last couple of days so walking has been much easier. Only four more days to go now - tomorrow should be a bit of a test as it is 23kms and some hills thrown in as well. I think the latest count today saw us crack the 200km mark so that is a bit of an achievement in itself. Also each day we learn more and more about how Julia didn't really do the walk for the DVD (including injuries and helicopter rides) so she isn't our most popular TV presenter at the moment. Anyway, everyone is in really good spirits. See you all soon. :-)

Al here:-

Happiness can be found in really simple things some times - like the big hot shower at tonights B&B, it was perfect. Strangely, todays walk didn't try to take us over the highest hills in the area so we all pulled up in fair condition at the Blue Bell Pub.

Wednesday 28 July - Richmond to Danby Wiske 22.5kms (or part thereof) - Terror Tunnel of Turds

JR here:-

The day has been pretty easy overall - but its started to rain as I'm writing. Pete's blisters are giving him a lot of grief although Al and Col seem to have their ailments under control unfortunately I'm finding it increasingly difficult to climb over things and once having got up there getting down is painful on the joints - its probably the NHS glucosamine I've been taking - got some BIG pills from Boots yesterday so maybe that'll help. We reduced the length of the walk to match what we thought we could do today and the part we walked took us over rolling countryside mostly on back roads - no climbs of any note. All cropping and grazing land with lots of activity on the farms (hay making and harvesting). We were concerned about the rain - lots of dark clouds about as you can see in the photos - but we only got a few drops as we walked through the door of the White Swan at Danby Wiske for the first beer(lager) of the day. The outskirts of Richmond are largely residential so all we really missed by shortening the walk were suburban streets and farmland (if we never see another cow pat or pile of sheep shrapnel we won't be complaining). The path skirts around the edge of some fields and it was evident that certain farmers don't want walkers on their land because the fields are cultivated right to the edge and there was at least one stile which had the wiring for the electrified fence round the field running through it as well as barbed wire decorating the posts. Tonight is beer and pizza at the White Swan - I mention this because the pub is having its kitchen re-modelled and the only food is take-away from one of the nearby towns - there is a certain novelty in eating-in on take-out however after the fish and chips in Richmond we are curious to see how the Poms do pizza. The guide book suggests that in the case of that other great staple of the north, chicken parmigana, any resemblance between what you might expect and actually get is entirely coincidental - we'll have to try that next I suppose.

Al here:-

Could have been walking from Jerrabomberra to Bungendore today, except for the hedgerows and the mantrap stiles and lots and lots of the fragrance of rural England, I'm sure the cows here would win the world title for the most stinky of all!! Fair bit of plugging along country lanes for the first time, tried to thumb a lift with the farmer Brown types passing in their Mitsubishi Warriors (yes they are really called Warriors here, we know them as Tritons) but no-one stopped, probably thought we looked too dodgy and not as pretty as their cows!

Col here:-

JR is correct feeling pretty good after a few easy days. Just had a most luxurious Radox bath so I am quite pleasantly relaxed at the moment. Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross tomorrow - looks like some more hill walking tomorrow. Then Ingleby to Great Broughton, then Great Broughton to Blakey Ridge (Glaisdale), Then Glaisdale to Egton Ridge and then the final push into Robin Hood's Bay. So I was wrong yesterday. It is five days more from now. We have covered approx. 190 klms so far out of our 300.Today was OK for what it was but a whole day of that would have fairly quickly become tedious. Nice litte B&B called the Old School House for tonight's stay. Pub last night (The Buck) in Richmond was OK but some clown in the room above us decided to entertain some friends with music and singing till the wee small hours which was a pain. Not a lot of ventilation in some of the rooms which makes sleeping difficult as it can be quite warm. Hope everyone at home is well and that all our Touch teams are doing well. You can send me some updates via ziffell@live.com.au if you have the time. Paulette is quite right in her assessment of this trek - you are often tired but basically you don't get much time to dwell on it as you have more of the same to come each day. I will leave it to Pete to explain today's by-line in all it's gory detail.

Peter here :-

The blog gives you an appreciation of the sights and sounds that you experience as you walk on the coast to coast. What doesnt translate is the pungent fragrance de nord anglaise that permeates the air fron time to time. Sometimes its the Revenge of the Cows - One Cow observed Alwyn and I walking towards it along the path and ambled onto the path, looked back to see that we were in place and released a torrent of liquid shite directly in front of us - my nostrils still have flashbacks of the pungent odour Another olfactory delight occured today when a farmer had scattered manure across an entire field that was part of the coast to coast track - I guess it left a smile on the farmers face but it left the residue of the gagging on mine. I described it as the terror tunnel of turds. Frankly I cant make scents of it all !! On another note I saw a sign that requested you to keep your dog under control and that it is an offence to worry a sheep. I know and support the rationale of the sign but I cant help but look for worried expressions on the sheep and think of them on a couch talking to a shrink about their Baaaaaaaad experience.